Sewing with Henry: How to Shorten Shoulders on Underworks 988

I recently bought a size small model 988 binder from Underworks; I think it is a little big and will buy the extra-small  next time. On this binder, the shoulders are too big for me, which makes the compression part of the shirt slide down and not do much chest binding.

This entry will show you how to shorten the shoulder straps on the 988, which is the model that only compresses at the chest and has a layer on top which is meant to look like a regular undershirt or tanktop.

I am not a professional tailor, so I apologize in advance if I make any mistakes or give the wrong advice. This is just how I altered mine.

You will need: scissors, pinking shears, thimble, needle, thread

Consult this link if you are new to sewing. Sewing Basics

Step One: Measure your shoulders.

  This can be done by taking a fabric tape measure and just simply start measuring right below your armpits (or wherever you want the shoulder straps to begin) and going up to the top of your shoulder and around to the back, ending where you want the shoulder straps to end. Alternatively, just measure the shoulder straps on a favorite undershirt or tank that fits well.

   After I took my measurements, I decided to take one inch off the shoulders. I wanted a comfortable fit that was not too snug, and did not bring the shirt up too tightly under my armpits.

Step Two: Mark where you want to cut.

   Use a hard ruler and measure one inch (or your desired length) down from the shoulder seams. Draw the line at a slight angle that slops down from the neck out to the shoulders.

 

Step Three: Open the seams along the shoulder, then cut.

   Take a seam ripper, and open up the seams that run parallel to the line you drew for both the cloth and the nylon material. Do not open up the seams that run vertical. After the seams are open, use a pair of sharp scissors and cut open the vertical seams. Then, grab a pair of pinking shears (or just the scissors if you do not own a pair) and cut the excess fabric just above the line you drew.

Step Four: Sew the nylon.

    Pin together the two sides that will run vertically, and then sew together the nylon centers. If hand sewing (which is what I did), just use a simple stitch that runs back and forth called running stitch and then work it again using a back stitch.
   Give the fabric a good pull to make sure your stitches will hold.

Step Five: Sew the fabric.

   Using a slip stitch, sew together the fabric which forms the top layer. Pin together the fabric if desired (I did not pin it together because the piece is so small and since it will be worn under my shirt, I don't care much if the stitches are not completely perfect).
   Give the fabric a good pull to make sure the stitches hold.

Step Six: Sew together the vertical seams.

    Remove your pins, and sew together the right (or left) vertical edge using what may be described  as an overcast stitch. Just put your needle up through the bottom half, then down through the top half; then up through the top half and down through the bottom half; continue until it is will stitched.Your thimble will come in handy on this step. Repeat on the left side.

Repeat all steps for your second shoulder.

Your finished product should look something like this (remember, yours will look neater if you properly pin your top fabric together, unlike me):

 

I wore my newly altered binder all day today, and it feels great. It is no longer slipping down on me, but I still think the circumference is a little big, so I may be doing more alterations to tighten up the sides. If I do tighten the sides, I'll post the directions along with better pictures.